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Donate Channels Technology Science & Health Disinformation History About Video Coda на русском Become a Member Shifting Borders Age of Nostalgia Battling History China’s repression of journalists Ransomware Newsletters Oligarchy Authoritarian Tech Fallout Facebook Twitter YouTube Instagram By Isobel Cockerell Photography by Louiza Vradi 24 August 2023 feature “I once had an idea in the back of my mind to leave this place and go abroad,” Besmir Billa told me earlier this year as we sipped tea in the town of Kukes, not far from Albania’s Accursed Mountains. “Of course, like everybody else, I’ve thought about it.” The mountains rose up all around us like a great black wall. Across the valley, we could see a half-constructed, rusty bridge, suspended in mid-air. Above it s...

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